If you love books, coffee, cake, riverside strolls and more books, you’ve just found your spiritual home.

The little town of Hay-on-Wye sits on the banks of the River Wye, straddling the Welsh - English border. It’s famous for its bookshops - currently around two dozen - and for the Hay Festival, the world-renowned arts and literature event which sets the town buzzing for a few weeks in early summer.

Come autumn, the festival crowds have gone and Hay returns to a more mellow, off-season pace. It’s the perfect time to visit. Spend hours browsing bookshops filled with second-hand oddities and crisp new hardbacks, settle down in a snug cafe to read and watch the world go by, or stroll along the beautiful banks of the Wye. The magical country town of Hay-on-Wye is the dream autumn escape.

Why visit Hay-on-Wye in the autumn?

• A booklover’s paradise - Explore the 20 plus independent bookshops. You can find everything from antiquarian leather-bound rarities to the latest Booker nominees.
• Coffee culture - Sip artisan coffee and eat homemade cakes in one of Hay’s cosy cafes.
• Riverside walks - Autumn is a dreamy time to wander along the banks of the Wye and see the golden leaves and enjoy the fresh, chilly air.
• Explore the Wye Valley - Autumn hikes and the stunning scenery of the famous Wye Valley are on the doorstep.
• Year-round buzz - Even outside the Hay Festival, the town’s creative, bookish energy is irresistible.

How to get to Hay-on-Wye

• By car - Around 45 minutes from Hereford, 1-2 hours from Cardiff, and about 4 hours from London.
• By train - The nearest mainline stations are Hereford or Abergavenny, with local buses and taxis linking to Hay.
• By bus - Regular bus services run from Hereford, Brecon and other nearby towns.

Where to stay near Hay-on-Wye

Dark Sky Reserves are special places with little or no light pollution, ideal for seeing stars. And Wales has the highest percentage of dark sky protected land anywhere in the world.

Autumn and winter are the best time to stargaze in Wales’ dark sky parks. Wrap up warm, make a flask of hot chocolate and settle down for a spectacular celestial show. In Wales’ clear and unpolluted skies you can spot meteor showers, comets, constellations and even the Northern Lights.

The first location in Wales to become an International Dark Sky Reserve was Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons National Park). When darkness falls over the hills, look up and you can see the glowing white clouds of the Milky Way with the naked eye.

Wales’ second dark sky destination is Eryri (Snowdonia National Park). It’s an awe-inspiring spot for seeing stars; stunning during the day and breathtaking at night, as constellations and shooting stars light up the mountain tops.

In 2023 Wales reached the gold-standard of stargazing when Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island), two miles off the Llyn Peninsula, was certified as Europe's first International Dark Sky Sanctuary. Its remote location and the mountain which blocks off light from the mainland make it one of the darkest places in the world. Bardsey is a summer-only location, as rough winter seas make the boat trip unsafe.

Why stargaze in Wales in the autumn?

• An international dark sky hot spot - Wales is one of the best places in the world to stargaze. It has two International Dark Sky Reserves: Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) and Eryri (Snowdonia) - plus Europe’s first International Dark Sky Sanctuary, Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island).
• Darker seasonal skies - Autumn and winter bring the longest, darkest nights, creating the perfect conditions for spotting the Northern Lights, constellations and shooting stars.
• Spectacular celestial events - Seasonal highlights like the Orionids and Leonids meteor showers often light up the autumn sky.
• Crisp, clear nights - Cooler weather means less haze, so the skies are sharper and the stars shine more brightly against the dark backdrop.
• Cosy autumnal escapes – Stargazing is the perfect companion to autumn breaks. See the stars, then retreat to a snug cabin or cottage to warm up by the fire.

How to get to Wales’ Dark Sky Reserves

• Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons National Park) - Just over 3 hours’ drive from London, or 1 hour from Cardiff. By train, head to Abergavenny or Merthyr Tydfil and connect with local buses into the park.
• Eryri (Snowdonia National Park) - 2 hours by road from Manchester or Liverpool, or 5 hours from London. Trains run to Betws-y-Coed, Bangor or Porthmadog, with bus links into the heart of the park.
• Ynys Enlli (Bardsey Island) - Travel to the Llyn Peninsula (around 4 hours from Cardiff or Manchester). A boat to the island runs from Porth Meudwy near Aberdaron in spring and summer. Book ahead as crossings depend on weather.

Where to stay in Wales’ Dark Sky Parks

Autumn can be one of the best times to put on your boots and get walking through Wales. The summer heat has given way to crisper air, meaning less sweat and frazzle. And the holiday crowds have gone, leaving you with peaceful pathways almost to yourself.

It’s also a glorious time of year to watch the seasons change and wildlife preparing for winter - and there’s nowhere better to see it than the unspoilt natural landscapes of Wales.

Eryri (Snowdonia) in North Wales is a world-class hiking destination. You can climb to the top of Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), the highest mountain in Wales. Or for something a bit less strenuous, the Aberglaslyn Pass, near Beddgelert, is one of the most beautiful valley walks in Wales. Follow the crystal-clear River Glaslyn down as it winds through a narrow gorge, with steep rocky sides and woods of oak and birch blazing with colour.

The Gower Coast Path (Swansea Bay) in South West Wales takes you past sweeping sandy beaches, dramatic cliffs and ancient standing stones. Time it right to watch gorgeous autumn sunsets over the ocean and finish up at a country pub.

Offa’s Dyke, running along the Welsh/English border, was rated one of the best walks in the world by the Lonely Planet. At 177 miles long, it’s one to do in stages unless you’re feeling particularly energetic. Walk the pathways in autumn for splendid views across the countryside.

Why hike in Wales in the autumn?

• The UK’s most beautiful countryside - Glorious, unspoilt national parks like Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) and Eryri (Snowdonia) make ideal hiking terrain. And they never look so stunning as during golden autumn days.
• Cooler weather - Fresh, crisp air makes walks and hill hikes more comfortable.
• Watch the seasons turn - The forests and woods of Wales are a dream location to watch the leaves change colour.
• Peace and quiet - The summer visitors have gone and it’s the perfect time to find solitude, breathe in the fresh mountain air, and enjoy Wales’ wild beauty all to yourself.
• Cosy stays to come home to - After a day on the hills, retreat to a snug cabin or cottage, light the fire and settle in. Wales does comfort brilliantly, especially when there’s a hot tub or log burner waiting.

How to get to Wales’ best walking trails

• Eryri (Snowdonia National Park), Aberglaslyn Pass - Around 2.5 hours by road from Manchester or Liverpool, or 5 hours from London. Trains run to Porthmadog, Betws-y-Coed or Bangor, with bus links to Beddgelert and the surrounding trails.
• Gower Coast Path (Swansea Bay) - Around 4 hours’ drive from London, or just under an hour from Cardiff. By train, head to Swansea, where regular buses connect to coastal villages such as Mumbles, Rhossili and Oxwich for access to different sections of the path.
• Offa’s Dyke Path - Roughly 3 hours by car from London to the southern end at Chepstow, or 4 hours to the northern start point near Prestatyn. Trains run to both Chepstow and Prestatyn, with local bus routes and taxis linking nearby towns and trail sections along the Welsh–English border.

Where to stay near Welsh walking trails

Red kites are magnificent birds of prey, with forked tails and a sassy attitude. And watching red kite feeding in Wales is an unforgettable experience.

You can see red kites being fed at select locations in Mid Wales. Arrive before feeding time, take your place in the viewing hide and get ready for an amazing spectacle.

Sometimes hundreds of wild red kites will turn up, skilfully swooping and diving to grab lunch. Watch them battle with crows - and each other - and snatch food in mid-air in daring displays of aerial piracy.

The colder months of the year are the ideal time to watch red kite feeding in Wales. Food is scarcer and the kites are hungry and ready to feed.

Some of the best places to see red kites being fed in Wales are: Gigrin Farm Red Kite Feeding Centre near Rhayader in Mid Wales, Llanddeusant Red Kite Feeding Station in the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park in Carmarthenshire, and Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre near Aberystwyth in Mid Wales.

Why watch red kite feeding in Wales in autumn?

• A red kite hotspot - Once on the brink of extinction, there are now an estimated 2500 breeding pairs of red kites in Wales. It’s one of the best places to see them in the UK.
• World-class red kite feeding centres - There are at least three dedicated red kite feeding centres in Wales. The best place in Wales to watch red kite feeding is arguably Gigrin Farm in Mid Wales, where as many as 500 red kites appear for their daily meal.
• A spectacular wild show - Red kites are elegant and fearless. Watch them circle and dive for food.
• Hungry birds - Autumn and winter are a good time to see red kites being fed, as wild food is more difficult to find during the colder months, meaning more birds appear at the feeding centres.
• Stunning surroundings - Red kite feeding centres are located amid beautiful Welsh countryside, and make a wonderful day out, or stop-off as part of an autumnal country hike.

How to get to Wales’s red kite feeding centres

• Gigrin Farm Red Kite Feeding Centre, Rhayader - Around 2 hours from Cardiff or 4.5 hours from London by car via the A470. The nearest train station is Llandrindod Wells, about 20 minutes away by taxi or local bus.
• Llanddeusant Red Kite Feeding Station, Carmarthenshire - Around 1 hour from Swansea or 1.5 hours from Cardiff by car. The nearest train stations are Llandeilo and Ammanford, both around 25 minutes’ drive.
• Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Visitor Centre, near Aberystwyth - Around 2.5 hours by car from Cardiff or 3 hours from Liverpool. The nearest train station is Aberystwyth, about a 15-minute drive from the centre.

Where to stay near Welsh red kite feeding centres

Amble down country lanes, through woods and over stiles and come back at dusk with a basket full of edible treats. A day out wild foraging in the autumnal Welsh countryside is a glorious way to slow down and reconnect with nature.

Mid and south Wales are both prime hunting grounds. There are edible treasures to be found hidden among the hills and valleys - fungi, fruit, seeds and herbs. Join a guided walk run by one of Wales’ expert local foragers to find the best spots (and steer clear of anything poisonous).

You can find foraging walks run by the Brecon Beacons Foraging Company in the hills of Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) and around the foodie town of Abergavenny. A regular favourite is the botanical gin walk, where you find local ingredients to make your own bespoke gin.

Head to the Pembrokeshire coast and the Really Wild Emporium will lead you along the seashore to discover seaweed and coastal plants packed full of antioxidants.

Further north in Ceredigion, spend a whole day exploring the hedgerows and coastline, where experts from Feral Futures will teach you about ecology and the art of thoughtful foraging.

Why wild forage in Wales in the autumn?

• Autumn abundance - Autumn is a rich time to forage, with hedgerows and woodlands brimming with mushrooms, berries, nuts and herbs.
• Seasonal flavours - Discover the intense flavours of wild food, from nutty mushrooms to tangy sea herbs, and turn your finds into hearty autumn feasts.
• Expert advice - Join a guided walk to find the best foraging spots, get expert advice and avoid anything poisonous.
• Beautiful countryside - Wander through Wales’ beautiful woods and valleys, which look truly splendid as the seasons change.
• Mindful connection - Foraging slows you down and tunes your senses to the natural world, letting you experience Wales’ wild places in a deeper, more meaningful way.

How to get to Wales’ wild foraging spots

• Bannau Brycheiniog / Abergavenny - Around 3.5 hours’ drive from London or just over an hour from Cardiff. By train, travel to Abergavenny or Merthyr Tydfil, then take a local bus or taxi to nearby villages within the Bannau Brycheiniog (Brecon Beacons) National Park. Most foraging walks start around the Abergavenny or Crickhowell area.
• Pembrokeshire Coast - Roughly 2.5 hours from Cardiff or 4.5 hours from London by car via the M4 and A40. The nearest train stations are Fishguard & Goodwick, Haverfordwest, and Clarbeston Road, with local buses or taxis available to St Davids, where the Emporium is based.
• Ceredigion coast - About 3 hours from Cardiff or 4 hours from Bristol by car, following the A470 and A487 towards Aberystwyth. Trains run to Aberystwyth or Carmarthen, and from there you can reach course locations in Ceredigion by local bus or taxi.

Where to stay near Wales’ wild foraging spots