Local's guide to North Wales

"One of the things we love most about North Wales is how quickly everything quietens. You can leave a town, follow a winding road for a few miles and suddenly the noise just fades away. These are the places we go when we want to find that sense of calm.

"The Horseshoe Pass is one of those drives that never gets old, no matter how many times we do it travelling to and from our Llangollen shacks. We love going early or late in the day, when the roads are quiet and the light stretches across the hills. On misty mornings, the valleys fill with cloud; on clear evenings, the sunsets can be spectacular.

"The Berwyn Mountains are where we go when we want to properly disappear for a while. We love starting near Pistyll Rhaeadr and making our way towards Cadair Berwyn. Beyond the drama of the waterfall, everything becomes quieter until it’s just heather, open hills and sky. It’s a gentler, more reflective kind of mountain walk – the sort of place where you stop checking your watch without noticing.

"Llyn Tegid (Bala Lake), Wales' largest natural lake, is all about stillness. We recommend the western side, where it feels more open and less busy. On calm days, the mountains are reflected beautifully in the water, and getting out on a paddleboard or kayak makes it feel more peaceful still.

"The Clwydian Range is another favourite. The walk towards Moel Famau is a classic, but what we really love is reaching the top: lungs full of fresh air and views stretching in every direction. We’ve witnessed some incredible sunsets here, when people gather around the Jubilee Tower to watch the light disappear. It’s a feeling that’s hard to explain, but one you won’t forget."

"I love visiting Castell y Bere in the Dysynni Valley, tucked away in a quiet corner of Snowdonia National Park. I rarely see another soul there and it’s free to visit. Although it’s now a ruin, the display boards really bring the castle to life. You can still see where the drawbridge would have been and imagine the main banqueting and storage spaces. The views towards the sea are breathtaking, and it feels like stepping back in time to a world before cars and noise. It’s also one of the last castles built by the native Welsh princes.

"To get there, you pass Craig y Deryn (Bird Rock), and we like to cycle the quiet, easy back road. Craig y Deryn is one of the few inland nesting sites for cormorants, and in summer you can hear and see them nesting. It’s a small mountain with fantastic views from the top and is perfect if you have a couple of hours to spare."

"Aran Fawddwy is my ultimate favourite, especially as it’s right on our doorstep. It’s the highest peak in southern Eryri, yet unlike Yr Wyddfa (Snowdon), you’ll often have the summit and beautiful Creiglyn Dyfi completely to yourself.

"Cadair Idris is another favourite of mine. It can be a little busier than Aran Fawddwy, but the walk up to Llyn Cau – a spectacular lake surrounded by towering mountain walls – is nothing short of breathtaking.

"Lake Vyrnwy is just a short 30-minute drive over the hill and is perfect for a gentler day outdoors. Surrounded by RSPB nature reserves and ancient woodland, it’s a lovely place for walking, cycling or kayaking. At the northern end of the lake you’ll also find a hidden gem, Rhiwargor Falls."

"The Dyffryn Ogwen will always come first for me because it was love at first sight. It has an extraordinary, almost prehistoric quality. The mountains don't sit decoratively in the background here; they rise straight above you and dominate the landscape.

"If you have scrambling experience, nothing beats the North Ridge of Tryfan, continuing over Bristly Ridge onto the Glyders and eventually descending through Devil's Kitchen.

"But you absolutely don't need to climb a mountain to experience the drama of the Dyffryn Ogwen. Llyn Idwal is breathtaking and is a relatively accessible walk that puts you right inside a huge glacial amphitheatre.

"Closer to home, I love Crimpiau, a very small mountain above Capel Curig that gives you an absurd amount of scenery for the effort involved. There are also beautiful lower-level walks to Llyn Cowlyd or around Llyn Crafnant and Llyn Geirionydd.

"I love wild swimming, so one of my favourite outings involves hiking and swimming across five different lakes, putting my kit in a dry bag while I swim. However, sometimes the best thing you can do is absolutely nothing. Find a rock beside a river, or a tree with a comfortable branch, take a book and stay there for a few hours. I often tell guests not to cram their time here with a checklist of attractions. The landscape itself is the attraction."

"Llangollen is an easy place to spend a day. Grab a coffee and wander across the bridge, browse the little Welsh shops and follow the River Dee as it shifts from calm to wild. There’s usually something happening, whether it’s the steam railway pulling in or canoeists tackling the weir, but the town never feels chaotic. One of our favourite things to do is take the horse-drawn boat along the canal to Horseshoe Falls, drifting beneath overhanging trees at a wonderfully slow pace. Stay into the late afternoon and walk up to Dinas Brân for sunset – the views across the valley are worth every step.

"Conwy is at its best early in the morning or later in the evening, when the streets are quieter and the castle and town walls catch the light. Walk the walls for views across the rooftops, water and surrounding hills, before heading down to the working quay and the famous smallest house in Britain. We like to pick up a sandwich or warm pie from Edwards and eat it by the harbour, or take it up Conwy Mountain. September is particularly beautiful, when the heather turns shades of pink and purple.

"Bala is simple in the best possible way. The lake becomes the focus of the day – swim, walk, find somewhere to eat, sit by the water and repeat. Early mornings are especially peaceful, when the water is often completely still and the surrounding mountains are reflected across its surface. We prefer the quieter western end of the lake, where you can find a spot by the water and happily let a couple of hours disappear."

"I love to visit Dolgellau. It is an old stone-built town with a main town square, set in the mountains of Eryri. There’s a river running by where you can hire bikes and take the Mawddach Trail to Barmouth, a 15km flat old railway track that runs along the estuary, with a good pub halfway. Dolgellau also has a great kids’ park with a high slide and zip wire, as well as adult workout stations too!

"I also love Machynlleth on a Wednesday when the market is in full swing. There is locally made sourdough on sale, along with a variety of fruit and veg stalls and flowers. I would pop into MOMA to have a look at the latest art exhibition, then have a coffee and toastie in Hermit Crab – the best coffee I have ever tasted! There’s also an incredible row of eight independently female-owned shops selling handmade shoes, bags, British-made fashion and jewellery, as well as handcrafted pots and baskets. The jazz bar is tiny and great fun too, with live music on Fridays!

"Our local town, Tywyn, is fabulous too. We have the UK Cinema of the Year, which has live music on Fridays and serves delicious food and drinks at your seat. We also have some excellent restaurants, like Saltmarsh Kitchen, and of course Niku Naku, the sauna by the sea."

"Dinas Mawddwy is a tiny, historic village steeped in folklore and home to the legendary 16th-century bandits, the Gwylliaid Cochion Mawddwy. Despite its size, there are some great places to eat, including Caffi'r Hen Siop for home-cooked breakfasts and lunches, and the cute Tiny Homes Coffee hut, which is a must for fantastic coffee and cakes. There are also walks for all abilities, including a route to an abandoned slate mine with great views.

"Machynlleth, the ancient capital of Wales, is another favourite. I love its vibrant high street, packed with independent shops and cafés selling everything from local Welsh cheeses, baked goods and fresh produce to vintage finds, textiles and books. It’s also home to the Dyfi Wildlife Centre and the Dyfi Osprey Project.

"Dolgellau has more than 200 listed stone buildings and is packed with independent boutiques, artisan collectives, bakeries and delis. It’s a great place to soak up authentic Welsh character, browse local crafts and enjoy its historic tearooms, all just a short distance from the scenic Mawddach Trail."

"I love Beddgelert, partly because getting there is half the pleasure. The drive from Capel Curig takes you past Llyn Gwynant and Llyn Dinas and is staggeringly beautiful.

"Beddgelert itself is lovely, and particularly magical for children is the legend woven into the village. Its name is traditionally associated with Bedd Gelert, meaning "Gelert's grave".

"The story is about Gelert, the loyal hound of Prince Llywelyn. One day, Llywelyn returned from hunting to find his baby's cradle overturned and Gelert with blood around his mouth. In a fit of rage and blind panic, he assumed Gelert had killed his son, drew his sword and killed him. Then he heard his baby cry and realised his child was unharmed, while beside the cradle lay a dead wolf. Gelert had killed the wolf while protecting the baby.

"The story probably owes more to folklore than history, but who cares when you're six? You can tell children the story while walking along the riverside to Gelert's supposed grave.

"I also love Betws-y-Coed. It can be busy, but step away from the main two streets and you're immediately surrounded by forest, rivers and waterfalls. It's also one of those useful places where you can have lunch, browse all sorts of trinket, clothing and kit shops, recaffeinate at Black Rock Coffi and then, within minutes, disappear back into the forest."

"Harlech Beach feels endless in the best possible way, with miles of sand and dunes backed by distant mountain views. You can walk for what feels like hours and still see hardly anyone, making it brilliant for dogs and long, peaceful walks. Nearby, you can cross the historic timber viaduct over the Mawddach Estuary, following the footpath alongside the railway with mountains on one side and the open estuary on the other. Visit at low tide, grab an ice cream and simply enjoy the space.

"Talacre is all about the Point of Ayr Lighthouse, which has stood at the water’s edge since 1776. At low tide you can walk right up to it, while at high tide it appears to rise straight from the sea. Backed by dunes and surrounded by miles of open sand, it feels wilder and less polished than some North Wales beaches – and all the better for it. Just keep an eye on the tide, as the water can come in quickly.

"Conwy Morfa is where we go when we want an easy end to the day. It’s a wide, quiet stretch of sand and dunes that rarely feels too busy, and at low tide the beach seems to stretch forever. Across the estuary, the Great Orme rises from the water, with Anglesey and Puffin Island beyond. We particularly love it at sunset, when there’s really no need to do anything other than enjoy the view."

"I love our home beach of Tywyn. It has endless stretches of sand and there are always very few people on it! We now have Niku Naku, a sauna with views out to sea. I like to walk along the beach from Tywyn to Aberdyfi, then get a sandwich at Otto’s on the harbour front and watch the Outward Bound kids jumping off the jetty and the sailing boats going by.

"The yacht club in Aberdyfi now offers sailing and foiling lessons for visitors too. It’s a stunning estuary, with pretty coloured houses and friendly locals, and is well worth a visit."

"Aberdyfi Beach sits in a picturesque coastal village where the Dyfi Estuary meets Cardigan Bay. It’s famous for its pastel-coloured seafront cottages and long, golden sandy beach, which is perfect for long dog walks and spending a relaxed day beside the sea.

"It’s also a haven for watersports enthusiasts, with sailing and paddleboarding particularly popular, while crab fishing from the wooden jetty is always great fun. Golf lovers can head to the renowned championship Aberdovey Golf Club, which is beautifully tucked into the sand dunes.

"The village also boasts some of the best seafood eateries and ice cream parlours in the area, making it easy to spend a whole day here. Best of all are the sweeping views across the Dyfi Estuary, framed by the mountains of Eryri in the distance."

"My favourite beaches aren't beside the sea! They're the tiny beaches around Llynnau Mymbyr, only a few hundred metres from the church. There are little secluded spots where you can have a mini beach all to yourself. I actually prefer swimming in the lakes, as there's no salt water, no crashing waves, no jellyfish and you don't spend the rest of the week finding sand in everything you own. On a still day, swimming here beneath Cwm Pedol yr Wyddfa/Snowdon Horseshoe is unbeatable. There are about 30 nearby lakes to swim in!

"When I do want the sea, I love Newborough on Anglesey for a walk and a dip on wild autumnal days. Walking through the forest and out towards Llanddwyn Island, with the mountains of Eryri visible across the water, is soul-quenching.

"Another favourite Anglesey ritual is a trip to the beach at Porth Tyn Tywyn near Rhosneigr. You can book the sauna and run backwards and forwards between the heat and the freezing Irish Sea, then in summer eat delicious, healthy lunches at the Dreamboat Cafe and listen to local acoustic sets. Out of season, head to the Oyster Catcher to refuel instead. That's pretty close to my idea of a perfect day."

"The Corn Mill in Llangollen sits right on the River Dee and is a great spot after a day exploring the town. It has a lovely old-world feel, with the river rushing past outside and a menu of comforting pub classics. It’s perfect for a long lunch or a well-earned dinner after a walk.

"The Erskine Arms is a proper Welsh pub in the heart of Conwy, just moments from the castle and town walls. It combines the cosy feel of a traditional coaching inn with seasonal, locally sourced food and plenty of Welsh character. We particularly like it for a Sunday roast or a cosy evening by the fire.

"Tu Hwnt i’r Bont Tearooms in Llanrwst is hard to miss. This beautiful 15th-century building, wrapped in greenery beside the River Conwy, looks like something from a storybook. We recommend it to guests staying nearby at Ascella for a traditional Welsh afternoon tea, homemade cakes or a light lunch, with lovely views across the valley.

"Y Cyfnod Cafe & Bistro is a favourite in the heart of Bala and perfect for guests travelling to and from our cabins, Maia and Alula. It’s a relaxed, welcoming place for breakfast, lunch or dinner after exploring Llyn Tegid and the surrounding countryside – the kind of place you can wander into after a day outdoors and happily stay a little longer."

"The Railway Inn in Abergynolwyn has that lovely traditional pub feel, with good local beer and a home-cooked menu usually featuring a delicious ploughman’s, curry and steak pie.

"I also love Proper Gander in Tywyn for fine dining, and Penmaenuchaf in Penmaenpool for very special occasions. I particularly like visiting in winter, when they serve drinks in the billiard room beside a wood fire."

"The Brigands Inn in Mallwyd is located just down the road and is a real local favourite. This characterful 15th-century coaching inn offers fabulous food, a good selection of local ales and cosy dining rooms that are particularly welcoming after a day spent exploring the surrounding countryside. It has plenty of historic charm and is the sort of place where you can happily settle in for a long lunch or relaxed evening meal.

"Cross Foxes, near Dolgellau, sits right at the foot of Cadair Idris, making it a brilliant place to stop after a long day in the hills. The modern bar and grill serves delicious, hearty food in a relaxed setting, and there’s nothing better than arriving hungry after a big walk and settling down for a well-earned meal.

"Dylanwad Wine & Tapas in Dolgellau is a fantastic choice for a more relaxed evening. It’s a lovely spot for drinks, with a great selection of fine wines alongside delicious Welsh-inspired tapas and small plates. It’s perfect for sharing a few dishes, trying something different and lingering over a bottle of wine.

"The Buckley in Dinas Mawddwy is another favourite and is right on our doorstep. It’s a great place to enjoy Chinese cuisine locally and makes a lovely alternative when you fancy something a little different after a day exploring the mountains and valleys around Dinas Mawddwy."

"For a real treat, I'd go to Palé Hall, near Bala. It's the sort of meal that becomes the event rather than simply somewhere you go to eat. The setting is beautiful and the food is extraordinarily ambitious, so it's somewhere I'd save for a celebration. Castell Deudraeth Brasserie is a lovely setting for lunch, and if you book online, you get free entry to Portmeirion afterwards.

"I love Dylan's in Criccieth after a swim. There's something wonderful about going for a swim and then sitting looking at the sunset while eating a late lunch/early dinner ("linder" or "dunch") at about 5pm on an OMAD day!

"Closer to home, my favourites in Betws-y-Coed include Hangin' Pizza and Olif for Welsh tapas. They're relaxed and exactly what you want after a day in the hills."

"Tucked away in the Berwyn Mountains, Pistyll Rhaeadr is the kind of place that feels like you’ve stumbled across it rather than sought it out. One of Wales’ tallest waterfalls, it tumbles dramatically down the rocks into the quiet valley below. It’s especially impressive after a good spell of rain, and it’s worth taking your time to explore the surrounding hills while you’re there.

"Most visitors head to Bala’s more accessible shores, but we love escaping to the western side of Llyn Tegid. With the lake stretching out beneath the mountains, it’s a beautiful place to find a quiet viewpoint, watch the weather roll across the water and simply take in the landscape. As the largest natural lake in Wales, Llyn Tegid feels particularly wild and peaceful from this side.

"World’s End above Llangollen really does live up to its name. The drive is all part of the experience – winding, narrow and slightly dramatic – before the landscape suddenly opens into a huge, peaceful valley. Visit on a clear day if you can, when you really get a sense of the scale of the place.

"And honestly, the best advice is still the simplest: don’t over-plan your time in North Wales. Some of the most memorable moments come from turning down a road you didn’t mean to take and discovering somewhere completely unexpected."

"The Rhydyronen Valley behind Snowdonia Hideaway is one of the most secluded places to walk, and I rarely meet another soul there. It feels like a hidden gem, untouched for centuries, with just the local sheep farmers grazing the common land. You could walk for a whole day without seeing anyone, with spectacular views all around.

"Equally, taking some of the little gated roads from Cregennan Lakes is a beautiful scenic adventure, passing through landscapes that feel like they’ve been forgotten by time."

"Southern Eryri really is one of the more untouched parts of the national park, with plenty of hidden places where you can escape the crowds and experience the landscape at its wildest. The vast mountain scenery offers so much to explore and discover, from forgotten quarries and dramatic waterfalls to secluded wild swimming spots tucked away among the hills.

"If you love hiking, this is the place to come. There are routes where you can walk for hours without meeting another soul, surrounded by mountains, valleys and a real sense of wilderness that can be harder to find in the busier parts of Eryri.

"And if you’re wondering exactly where our favourite hidden gems are, we’re afraid you’ll have to come and stay to find out! To help keep these special places peaceful and untouched, we only share their locations with our guests."

"There are countless magical swimming places hidden along the rivers here: deep pools beneath waterfalls, smooth rocks warmed by the sun and places where you can sit with your feet in the water and not see another person. I'm deliberately not going to give the exact locations, as part of the magic is discovering them for yourself and having them become your spots.

"Probably my biggest piece of local advice is: don't over-plan your visit. By all means, do some of the famous attractions – ZipWorld, Portmeirion, the National Trust properties, castles like Conwy, Caernarfon, Harlech and Beaumaris – but leave space to follow a footpath because it looks interesting, stop the car because you've seen somewhere beautiful, swim in a lake you've discovered or spend an afternoon beside a river.

"People sometimes arrive with an itinerary so packed with organised activities that they barely have time to experience simply being here."

"We’d start by heading towards one of our shacks in Llangollen, Bala, Conwy or Snowdonia, depending on the kind of weekend we fancied. We might stop for a wander around Llangollen and a walk along the canal, followed by lunch at The Corn Mill overlooking the River Dee. Then it’s back to the shack to unpack, light the fire, run the outdoor bath and settle in for the evening.

"The next morning, we’d make an early start and head into the hills. World’s End is a favourite for big views and open landscapes, while Pistyll Rhaeadr makes a spectacular morning adventure, especially after rain. If we were staying around Conwy, we’d stop at the Erskine Arms for a proper pub lunch before exploring the castle and town walls. Then it’s boots off and back to the shack for dinner and an evening around the fire.

"For a slower day, we’d head to Bala and spend some time around Llyn Tegid, Wales’ largest natural lake. We love the quieter western shore, where you can find a peaceful spot overlooking the mountains or get out on the water if the weather is good. Lunch would be at Y Cyfnod before heading back to the shack, making the most of the walks, waterfalls and wild countryside along the way.

"Before heading home, we’d squeeze in one final walk. Alwen Reservoir is perfect for a peaceful morning surrounded by forest, moorland and big skies. Or, if we were closer to Conwy or Snowdonia, we’d head into the mountains one last time.

"That’s the trick with a long weekend in North Wales: don’t try to see everything. Pick a few good places, eat well, walk until your legs are tired and leave plenty of time to simply enjoy where you’re staying. The mountains will still be there next time."

"From Snowdonia Hideaway, I’d start the day with a peaceful walk along the flat riverbank into Tywyn, stopping for breakfast at Millie in Sid’s. Afterwards, I’d have a swim in the sea or hop on a bike and ride along the coast towards Tonfanau, enjoying the sea air and views along the way.

"If I was feeling energetic, I’d hike up Cadair Idris and then head to Tal-y-Llyn Lake for a well-earned drink afterwards. On the way home, I’d stop at Dolgoch Falls, where powerful tumbling water meets winding oak trees and mossy banks. It’s the sort of place that makes you want to stop for a while, take everything in and perhaps even write a poem.

"Then I’d head back to Snowdonia Hideaway in time to watch the sunset over the sea, followed by a massage in the treatment room. I’d leave feeling both invigorated and completely relaxed.

"Co-owner Aled’s version of the perfect weekend would be slightly different – he’d take his classic motorbike out along some of the wonderful winding B-roads, enjoying the scenery and open roads before finding somewhere for a really good meal for supper."

"A long weekend at Hafan Hideaways starts with settling into the cabin before wandering up to a secluded wild swimming spot for a refreshing dip and a scenic picnic. It’s the perfect way to ease into the weekend and enjoy the peace and quiet of Southern Eryri. As evening arrives, we’d head back to the cabin and unwind around the firepit beneath a blanket of stars.

"The next day brings a tough choice between two legendary peaks: Cadair Idris or Aran Fawddwy – although the quieter trails of Aran Fawddwy usually win out. We’d pack plenty of snacks and bring our bathers for a swim in a mountain lake along the way, making a full day of being out in the wild.

"Afterwards, it’s back to the cabin for a BBQ, followed by a long soak in the hot tub to soothe tired muscles. We’d finish the evening stargazing right from the bed before waking up to breakfast out on the deck. Then there’s just enough time to start planning the next adventure before checking out."

"On Friday evening, almost regardless of the weather, I'd jump in a mountain lake. There's something about cold water that recalibrates you, so all the stress evaporates. Then I'd try to hear one of the local Welsh choirs. There's a depth and power to the sound, particularly when they're singing in Welsh, that seems completely at home amongst the mountains. Afterwards, I'd have dinner in Betws-y-Coed or Trefriw.

"On Saturday, I'd get up early, take my coffee outside and simply breathe for a while. I'd cook breakfast outside over a fire and then head into the mountains.

"If you're new to the mountains, start with Crimpiau. Progress to Moel Siabod, and when you have the experience, fitness and conditions for it, the Cwm Pedol yr Wyddfa/Snowdon Horseshoe is one of those days whose excitement and beauty you'll remember for the rest of your life.

"If the weather isn't suitable for the mountains, I'd walk through the woods along the Afon Llugwy towards Betws-y-Coed, taking in Rhaeadr y Wennol/Swallow Falls, then have lunch somewhere like T? Gwyn or the Royal Oak.

"In the afternoon, I'd hire a mountain bike (or e-bike) and head into Gwydir Forest, perhaps up to Llyn Elsi. More technical riders can tackle the bike trails at Gwydir Mawr & Bach or nearby Dolen Machno and Dolen Eryri.

"And if the weather is truly biblical? Don't worry, North Wales does bad weather rather brilliantly. My first choice would be to make an axe or sword at the Royal Oak Forge in Betws-y-Coed. Other options include going underground. Go Below offers genuinely epic adventures, while at Zip World there's Bounce Below (giant trampolines underground) or the Zip Caverns. For me, this is the best of their adrenaline activities and way better than Velocity, the 'world's fastest' zip wire.

"But I'd leave part of Sunday completely empty.

"That's the bit I think visitors sometimes miss. You don't have to conquer another mountain or arrange another attraction. Walk down to the river. Find a rock. Take a book. Have a swim. Watch the clouds move across the sky.

"After thirty years of living here, those are still some of my favourite days."