Local's guide to Pembrokeshire

"There are a couple of beaches that hold special memories for me, as I spent my childhood summers on them. We always recommend both to guests, but for very different reasons.

"Poppit Sands is the perfect beach for young children, with acres of fine sand for building sandcastles, rocks to explore at low tide and shallow water that's ideal for paddling. There's also a great beach café, Crwst, where the grown-ups can enjoy delicious coffee – and their speciality doughnuts are not to be missed.

"My other favourite would be what we've always called the "secret beaches" at Gwbert – a series of dramatic pebbly coves reached by steep steps. They're perfect if you want to relax in complete peace and perhaps even have the water to yourself, as hardly anyone knows about them. The clifftop walk to reach them is pretty special too, with spectacular views along the coast and across to Cardigan Island – and you may even spot dolphins along the way."

"Broadhaven South, near the Bosherston Lily Ponds, is one of my favourites. Everyone loves Barafundle Bay, but I tend to stay well clear as it gets incredibly busy and the road can close early when the car park fills up. There’s also an incredible beach near Solva that you can walk to from Pointz Castle Farm.

"New Quay Beach is a tiny, lovely beach near St Govan’s Chapel, reached by walking towards Broadhaven. Like Presipe Beach, it disappears at high tide and is only revealed as the tide goes out. Both Presipe and New Quay are places many visitors would never know about unless someone local pointed them in the right direction!

"Marloes Sands, near Dale, is another favourite and well worth seeking out for its beautiful, wild stretch of coastline."

"Choosing favourite beaches in Pembrokeshire is incredibly difficult because we really are spoiled for choice. Every beach has its own character and charm, so my favourites often depend on the season or even my mood. If I had to narrow it down, though, Freshwater West would definitely be in my top three. There’s something really special about it. It’s rugged, wild and beautifully unspoilt, with a real sense of freedom that you don’t find everywhere. Whether it’s the dramatic waves, the dunes or simply being surrounded by nature, it never fails to impress.

"My second choice would be Manorbier. It has a similar natural, unspoilt feel to Freshwater West, but on a much smaller scale. The water is often beautifully clear, making it one of my favourite spots for an evening swim. There’s something incredibly calming about being there as the sun starts to set, and it’s one of those places that reminds you just how lucky we are to have such a stunning coastline on our doorstep.

"Finally, I’d choose Priory Beach on Caldey Island. It offers a completely different experience – peaceful, tranquil and a world away from the hustle and bustle. The views back towards Tenby and along the surrounding coastline are breathtaking and make the trip over to the island well worthwhile."

"For me, it has to be Freshwater West. There’s something magical about the combination of sweeping sand dunes, fantastic surf and those beautiful westerly sunsets throughout the summer. It’s a wild, unspoilt stretch of coastline that I never get tired of visiting.

"Another favourite is Broad Haven South, particularly because of the lovely walk through the Bosherston Lily Ponds before reaching the beach. I also love Little Haven, which is the closest beach to Wilder Retreats. It’s a really cute little coastal village with a beautiful beach, great pubs and some lovely places to eat, making it perfect for a relaxed day by the sea."

"We always recommend a visit to the Welsh Wildlife Centre. It’s a wonderful place to spend a few hours, with lovely walks, plenty of wildlife and fantastic views across the Teifi Estuary. One of our favourite ways to visit is to walk there from Cardigan, following the peaceful paths through the marshes and taking in the scenery along the way, before stopping for lunch at the café.

"Another favourite is the walk from our house up towards Cemaes Head and then beyond along the coast. The views never fail to blow us away, with dramatic cliffs, hidden coves and the sea stretching out ahead of you. At the right time of year, you can look down into the secluded coves and spot seals basking in the sunshine below, which always makes the walk feel that little bit more special."

"Skomer Island is an absolute must for any visitor. If you want to land on the island, you’ll need to book well in advance – around six months is a good idea – but you can also take a cruise around it with the Pembrokeshire Islands Boat Company. Puffins, guillemots and razorbills nest here from spring until around the second week of July, and an evening cruise to watch thousands of Manx shearwaters returning to Skomer at night is a really special experience.

"The Green Bridge of Wales and Stack Rocks are also must-sees, and can easily be combined with a visit to St Govan’s Chapel. When the Castlemartin Range is open, Stack Rocks and the Green Bridge are less than a five-minute walk away. Between March and the end of July, you can also see guillemots and razorbills nesting on Stack Rocks.

"A boat trip around Caldey Island is another great way to get out on the water and spot seals and other wildlife.

"Trips leave from St Justinians near St Davids, so it’s easy to combine a boat trip with time exploring the city. Voyages of Discovery is probably my top choice for offshore trips, while a trip around Ramsey Island is particularly good for spotting seals, including pups from August onwards."

"Pembrokeshire is full of incredible places to connect with nature, and I’m always discovering somewhere new, but there are a few places I find myself returning to time and time again.

"Colby Woodland Garden is one of my favourites in every season. It’s a beautiful place to walk, especially with my dogs, and it changes throughout the year, so no two visits ever feel quite the same. It’s particularly spectacular when the rhododendrons are in full bloom, filling the gardens with vibrant colour. It’s such a peaceful place to wander, whether you’re looking for a gentle walk or simply somewhere to slow down and enjoy nature.

"The Stackpole Estate is another place that never disappoints. The combination of woodland, lakes, coastline and open countryside makes it one of the most picturesque areas in Pembrokeshire. From there, you can wander through to the Bosherston Lily Ponds, which are home to an incredible variety of wildlife. It’s not unusual to see swans and other wildfowl, and if you’re lucky, you might even spot an otter.

"Skomer Island has to be one of the most unforgettable nature experiences in Pembrokeshire. Visiting between May and July is something I think everyone should experience at least once. Seeing thousands of puffins returning to the island to breed is absolutely magical, and being able to get so close to them in their natural habitat is a real privilege. The island is also home to an incredible array of wildflowers, seabirds and other wildlife, making it a haven for anyone who loves the outdoors. It’s a wonderful reminder of just how rich and diverse Pembrokeshire’s natural environment really is."

"Skomer Island and the Deer Park are two of my favourite places to experience Pembrokeshire at its wildest. The scenery is incredible, especially from the Deer Park, where you can look out across the water towards Skomer and Skokholm islands. It’s a spectacular place for a coastal walk at any time of year.

"The wildlife makes it even more special. From around late August through to October, seals come to pup on the beaches below the Deer Park. Then, from April through to July, it’s all about the islands themselves, when tens of thousands of puffins arrive, making Skomer an unforgettable place to visit."

"We love the market town of Narberth for a bit of retail therapy. It’s packed with independent shops and is also a treasure trove of antique and vintage stores, making it perfect for whiling away an afternoon rooting around and seeing what hidden gems you can discover. There are plenty of lovely cafés and places to stop along the way too, so it’s easy to spend a few hours here.

"Tenby is another favourite, as it has everything you could want from a classic old-fashioned seaside town. You’re spoilt for choice with its beautiful beaches, pretty multi-coloured terraced houses and traditional rock shops, not to mention fish and chips by the sea. There’s always a lovely holiday atmosphere – what’s not to love!"

"Caldey Island is well worth visiting, and both Tenby and Saundersfoot are favourites too. They can get busy, but the lovely beaches make them brilliant for families. Tenby also has plenty to explore away from the beach, including the Tudor Merchant’s House, a small art gallery and the lifeboat station, which are great options for older couples and anyone interested in the town’s history.

"Narberth is another favourite, with lots of independent shops, delis, eco shops, clothes shops and galleries, as well as some excellent places to eat. It’s a lovely town for simply wandering around and browsing.

"Solva is tiny, as is St Davids, but both have some lovely shops and plenty of character. In Solva, you can combine a visit with a walk around the harbour, while in St Davids you can explore the cathedral and Bishop’s Palace or head out on an offshore boat trip."

"This is another really difficult one because there are so many places in Pembrokeshire that I love visiting, but there are a few that I always find myself going back to.

"Manorbier has to get another mention. It’s such a lovely little village and somewhere that instantly makes me feel relaxed. The castle is absolutely stunning, and I don’t think I’ll ever get tired of the view as you walk towards it. Having such a beautiful beach just a short walk away makes it even more special. It’s one of those places that never seems to lose its charm, no matter how many times I visit.

"St Davids is another favourite of mine. I love that it’s the UK’s smallest city, but despite its size, there’s always plenty going on. The cathedral is incredible and gives the city so much character, and I could happily spend hours wandering around the independent shops before stopping for lunch or a coffee. Being surrounded by such an amazing coastline is an added bonus.

"Narberth is somewhere I always enjoy spending a few hours. It has such a friendly, welcoming feel, and I love that it’s packed with independent shops and boutiques rather than the usual chain stores. It’s perfect for a bit of browsing and picking up something a little different, and there are so many great cafés and restaurants to choose from. I never seem to leave empty-handed!"

"Narberth and St Davids are my two favourite places to visit in Pembrokeshire, and they each offer something completely different.

"Narberth is a lovely hilltop town with a bustling high street packed with independent boutiques, galleries and antique shops. It’s the sort of place where you can easily spend a few hours browsing, stopping for coffee and discovering something you weren’t expecting to find. There’s also a great food scene, with plenty of excellent places to eat and drink. Every September, the Narberth Food Festival brings the whole town to life and is a brilliant time to visit if you love good food and local produce.

"St Davids is completely different. It may officially be Britain’s smallest city, but it feels much more like a village. At its heart is the stunning 12th-century cathedral, tucked into a hollow below the surrounding streets and one of the most impressive sights in Pembrokeshire.

"What I really love about St Davids is how closely connected it is to the coast. You’ll find surf shops just moments from the cathedral, while beautiful Whitesands Bay is only a few minutes away. You can also head out on a boat trip to Ramsey Island, where there’s a chance to spot seals, dolphins and other marine wildlife."

"The Teifi Waterside – or The Webley, as it’s still known to locals – is a great spot on sunny days. We love sitting in the garden overlooking the estuary, watching the tide come and go and spotting the incredible birdlife over a pint or two. Best of all, we can walk there from the house along Poppit Sands, which makes a visit even more enjoyable.

"We always recommend The Albion in Cardigan for its delicious cocktails and local beers. There’s nothing better than sitting out on the terrace and watching the sun go down over the river with a drink in hand.

"For a special night out, we love Yr Hen Printworks in Cardigan. The food is mouthwatering, and the small plates mean you can try plenty of different dishes, each one arriving like a little work of art. We particularly love how much local produce they use, making it a real celebration of the area."

"Feast at Cresselly Quay is an absolute must, serving fantastic barbecue-smoked food from Thursday to Sunday. It’s definitely one to add to the list.

"The Quayside Café at Lawrenny Quay is another favourite, as is the Wavecrest Café at West Angle Bay. For something a little more special, The Old Point House at East Angle Bay offers fine dining and is also open for lunch during the school holidays.

"In Tenby, El Camilito on Upper Frog Street is well worth a visit. Nora’s Kitchen in Tenby Market is a great daytime option, and there are several good places to eat around The Mews on Upper Frog Street.

"The pub in Manorbier is a good choice for classic pub grub, while Harbwr Brewery is another favourite. Finally, Bubbleton Farm Shop and Café, between Tenby and Lydstep, is a lovely place to stop during the day for something to eat."

"One of the things I love most about Pembrokeshire is how many fantastic independent places there are to eat. We’re so lucky to have amazing local produce on our doorstep, and there are so many restaurants and cafés that really make the most of it.

"Runwayskiln in Marloes is definitely one of my favourites. The location is hard to beat, tucked away near the coast, but it’s the food that keeps me going back – the fish tacos are definitely one of my favourites.

"Feast at Cresswell Quay is another favourite. There’s something really special about food cooked over fire, and you can really taste the quality of the local ingredients. Set beside the historic inn and river at Cresswell Quay, it’s such a unique setting with a lovely, relaxed atmosphere that makes you want to stay all afternoon.

"For lunch, Plum & Vanilla in Narberth is always high on my list. Even if you’re not vegetarian, the food is incredible. Their salads are anything but ordinary, packed with fresh, seasonal local produce and full of flavour.

"If I’m in Tenby, Upper Mews Burger & Bar is usually my go-to. It has a great atmosphere and the burgers are some of the best around. I love that they focus on locally sourced ingredients, and it’s one of those places that’s just consistently good.

"Finally, Rowan Cafe at Dewslake Caravan Park is a real hidden gem and somewhere we visit regularly. The food is outstanding, with a real emphasis on organic, locally sourced ingredients, and you can tell how much care goes into every dish. As dog owners, we also love that they have a brilliant dog menu, which makes it an easy choice when we’re out exploring with the dogs. It’s one of those places we always look forward to visiting."

"The Griffin Inn in Dale has to be top of the list for me. It sits right on the water, so you get a fantastic setting alongside some of the freshest fish around, with much of it landed straight from local boats in the Haven. The seafood is paired with the most amazing sauces, and the lobster and lobster arancini are absolute favourites of mine. It’s a brilliant place to enjoy fresh local seafood while looking out across the water.

"The Swan Inn is another favourite and somewhere that works beautifully throughout the year. In winter, it’s perfect for settling in with a fireside drink, while in summer you can sit out on the terrace overlooking iconic Little Haven Point. It has a really lovely atmosphere and, being only around 10 minutes from Wilder Retreats, it’s an easy place to return to again and again.

"Further afield, Lan y Môr in Saundersfoot is definitely worth the drive. It sits right on Coppet Hall Beach, so you get another fantastic coastal setting alongside great food. It’s a lovely choice if you’re exploring this part of Pembrokeshire and want to combine a day by the sea with a really good meal."

"I think this would have to be the hidden coves at Gwbert again. There’s something really special about making your way down the steep steps and finding these peaceful little beaches tucked beneath the cliffs. They’re rarely busy, so you can often have a whole cove almost to yourself, whether you fancy a swim or simply want to sit and enjoy the peace. With the dramatic coastline all around you, they feel like a real Pembrokeshire secret."

"Presipe Beach near Manorbier is a real hidden gem, reached on foot along the Pembrokeshire Coast Path. It’s wonderfully tucked away and a great place to escape some of the busier stretches of coastline. You can also combine a visit with time in Manorbier, where the beach and castle make for a lovely day out. Just bear in mind that the castle is often closed for weddings on Saturdays between around May and September.

"Another favourite is the Deer Park circular walk near Marloes. Marloes Sands itself is well known, but this walk is a wonderful way to experience the quieter side of the area, with wild coastal scenery, far-reaching sea views and plenty of opportunities for wildlife spotting.

"For something a little more adventurous, I’d recommend an offshore boat trip to the Grassholm gannet colony and The Smalls Lighthouse. There’s a good chance of seeing gannets, dolphins, seals and porpoises along the way, and it’s an unforgettable way to experience the wilder, more remote side of Pembrokeshire."

"One of the things I love most about living in Pembrokeshire is that there are still plenty of places that feel like hidden gems, even if some are becoming a little better known.

"Monkstone Beach is definitely one of those places. Tucked between Saundersfoot and Tenby, it’s only accessible on foot, which means it always feels that little bit more secluded. The walk down is well worth it, and you’re rewarded with a beautiful sandy bay that feels a world away from the busier beaches nearby.

"The Blue Lagoon at Abereiddy is another spot I love. Created from an old slate quarry, it’s such a unique place and somewhere that’s guaranteed to impress if you’ve never been before. It’s become a popular spot for wild swimming and, if you’re feeling brave enough, cliff jumping. Even if you’re not taking the plunge, it’s a fantastic place to visit, with dramatic cliffs and striking turquoise water making it one of the most memorable spots on the Pembrokeshire coast.

"I’d also recommend the little village of Lawrenny. Sitting on the banks of the estuary, it’s peaceful, picturesque and somewhere I love spending time. There are some lovely walks through the woodland and along the water, and it’s a great place to slow down for a few hours. I always like stopping at the Quayside Cafe afterwards – it’s a brilliant little café with a relaxed atmosphere and the perfect place to refuel after a walk."

"For me, the beauty of Pembrokeshire is getting out there and discovering those little spots that feel special to you. That said, Lawrenny is a real hidden gem, especially in summer when Feast at the Quay serves its fantastic barbecue food by the water. It’s a lovely place to spend a relaxed afternoon and feels tucked away from the busier coastal spots.

"My favourite stretch of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is heading south out of Little Haven. The path winds beneath oak canopies growing up the cliffside before opening out to magical views across St Brides Bay. Time it for sunset and it’s particularly special."

"Probably relaxing on the beach at Poppit, finding a quiet nook at the edge of the sand dunes and simply watching the world go by with a picnic and a good book. We’d definitely spend plenty of time walking our dog along the glorious beaches and coastal paths of the north Pembrokeshire coast, taking in those incredible sea views along the way.

"We might also drive up to New Quay for a fishing trip with the kids, with plenty of time for relaxed pub lunches in between. Then we’d finish the day back at the Teifi Waterside, enjoying a sundowner overlooking the estuary – the perfect end to a day by the coast."

"I’d spend one day exploring the coast around Marloes, starting with the Deer Park circular walk for the spectacular sea views before heading down to Marloes Sands. If you’ve booked far enough ahead, a trip to Skomer Island is an absolute must, especially during puffin season. Otherwise, a cruise around the island is a brilliant alternative.

"Another day would be spent around St Davids, visiting the Cathedral and Bishop’s Palace before heading to St Justinians for a boat trip. I particularly like the offshore trips towards Grassholm and The Smalls Lighthouse, where you have a good chance of seeing gannets, dolphins, seals and porpoises.

"I’d also make time for St Govan’s Chapel, Stack Rocks and the Green Bridge of Wales, provided the Castlemartin Range is open. Then I’d finish the weekend at Cresselly Quay with barbecue-smoked food at Feast – a great way to round off a few days exploring Pembrokeshire."

"If I had a long weekend to show someone the best of Pembrokeshire, it would probably look something like this!

"I’d start with a day in Tenby. I never get tired of wandering around the colourful streets, browsing the independent shops and taking a stroll down Sergeant’s Lane, which has such a lovely atmosphere. For food, I’d head to either Harbwr Bar or the Hope & Anchor, depending on what we fancied, before finishing the day with a drink at Didi’s Den overlooking Castle Beach. On a sunny evening, I can’t think of a better place to sit and watch the world go by.

"Day two would start with an early breakfast at Café Vista before heading out on one of my favourite stretches of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, from Tenby to Manorbier. The views along the way are incredible, and it’s a walk I never get bored of, no matter how many times I do it. After working up an appetite, I’d stop at the Castle Inn in Manorbier for a late lunch or early supper, before rounding off the day with an evening swim at Manorbier Beach.

"On the final day, I’d head to Rowan Cafe for breakfast – it’s one of our favourite places and always worth a visit. Afterwards, I’d take a gentle walk around Cresselly and down to the quay. It’s such a peaceful part of Pembrokeshire and feels a little slower-paced than some of the busier spots. Then I’d finish the weekend with Feast Pembrokeshire’s wood-fired Sunday roast. Great local food, a beautiful setting and a relaxed afternoon with friends or family is, for me, the perfect way to end a weekend in Pembrokeshire."

"If I had a long weekend in Pembrokeshire, I’d always be looking for an excuse to get in the water. Surfing would be top of the list, and there are plenty of local providers offering lessons and board hire, whether you’re trying it for the first time or looking to improve your skills. If the conditions weren’t right for surfing, I’d head out and hike a good section of the Pembrokeshire Coast Path instead, taking in the cliffs, beaches and incredible sea views along the way.

"I’d pair all that time outdoors with an amazing meal at The Griffin in Dale, enjoying fresh local seafood overlooking the water. Then I’d make sure there was plenty of time to slow things down at Wilder Retreats.

"For me, that would mean a long soak in the wood-fired hot tub in the evening, followed by a lazy breakfast the next morning with no reason to rush anywhere. I’d happily spend an afternoon sitting in the sunshine with a good book, surrounded by nothing but countryside and birdsong. That balance of adventure and complete relaxation is my perfect Pembrokeshire weekend."

"If you’re ever in the little village of St Dogmaels on a Tuesday morning, the local produce market is a must. Held rain or shine in an idyllic spot between the old abbey ruins and the duck pond, it has a lovely community feel. You can browse stalls selling everything from local honey and fresh produce to plants, pottery and handmade crafts, and it’s a great way to discover some of the area’s independent producers.

"And if you’re into fashion, Hiut Denim is based just down the road in Cardigan. The company makes its jeans locally and offers factory tours, as well as a great shop where you can sometimes pick up factory bargains. It’s something a little different to do while you’re in the area and a great local business to discover."

"If I could recommend just one thing to anyone visiting Pembrokeshire, it would be to get out and walk the coast path. Whether you walk two miles or challenge yourself to all 186 miles, every section has something different to offer. One minute you’re looking out over dramatic cliffs, the next you’ve stumbled across a hidden cove or a beach that feels like your own little secret.

"I honestly think we’re incredibly lucky to live in such a beautiful part of Wales, and the Pembrokeshire Coast Path is one of the best ways to experience it. It’s always one of the first things I recommend to guests staying with us because it showcases everything that makes this county so special – incredible scenery, wildlife, beaches and a wonderful sense of peace.

"The best part is that it’s completely free. Sometimes the most memorable experiences don’t cost a thing; they simply give you the chance to slow down, breathe in the fresh sea air and appreciate just how special Pembrokeshire really is."

"There really are so many places to explore in Pembrokeshire, as well as fantastic local restaurants, pubs and independent businesses to discover along the way. One of the things I love most is just how much variety there is. If you’re looking for adventure, you can try everything from surfing and rock climbing to mountain biking, trail running and other outdoor activities.

"Equally, Pembrokeshire is the perfect place to simply slow down, switch off and surround yourself with beautiful scenery. You can visit multiple times and have a completely different experience on every trip, which is what makes it such a special place to keep coming back to."